The Unexpected Origins of America’s Most Iconic Snack: The Hot Dog
When you think of classic American food, the hot dog is likely one of the first things that comes to mind. Found at nearly every baseball stadium, backyard barbecue, and highway rest stop, this humble yet beloved dish has become a true symbol of Americana. But what many don’t know is that the story of the hot dog began not in a stadium or at a summer picnic—but on a beach.
Coney Island: The Cradle of the Hot Dog
The roots of the American hot dog trace back to Coney Island, New York. As the city baked in summer heatwaves, New Yorkers escaped to the breezy shores of this Brooklyn amusement park, a vibrant mix of carnival rides, games, and nostalgic charm. On the corner of Surf and Stillwell Avenues, a long line often stretches under the iconic signs of Nathan’s Famous, boasting “World famous frankfurters since 1916.” But a short walk from there stands another shop, Feltman’s of Coney Island, declaring itself the home of “The Original Hot Dog – 1867.”
Many assume that Nathan’s is where the story of the Coney Island hot dog began. But long before Nathan’s opened its doors, a German immigrant named Charles L. Feltman was already making culinary history on these very shores.
From Bakery Cart to Empire
Feltman arrived in the U.S. in 1856 and opened a Brooklyn bakery in 1865. During his daily pie deliveries to Coney Island, he also sold clams from his pushcart. But as more visitors began arriving via the newly built Coney Island and Brooklyn Railroad, people began asking for hot food. In response, Feltman had his cart retrofitted with a charcoal grill and a bread-warming compartment. In the summer of 1867, he began selling what he called “Coney Island red hots”—sausages in long buns, designed to be eaten easily at the beach.
The idea was an instant hit. That summer alone, Feltman sold nearly 4,000 hot dogs at five cents apiece. By 1871, he had opened a full-fledged restaurant called Feltman’s Ocean Pavilion. Over the decades, his small cart operation exploded into a Coney Island empire that eventually spanned an entire block, featuring nine restaurants, a hotel, movie theatre, beer garden, rollercoaster, and even a bathhouse. At its peak, the Feltman business served up to 40,000 hot dogs a day.
Enter Nathan Handwerker
Among Feltman’s many employees was a Polish immigrant named Nathan Handwerker, who sliced rolls in the kitchen. Encouraged by friends and armed with a $300 loan and his wife’s family’s spice recipe, Nathan struck out on his own in 1916—just blocks away from his former employer. To attract customers, he undercut Feltman’s pricing, selling his hot dogs for five cents compared to Feltman’s ten.
Over time, Nathan’s brand flourished, especially after the Feltman family sold their business in the 1940s. By 1954, Feltman’s had closed its doors, leaving Nathan’s as the reigning hot dog brand on the Coney Island boardwalk.
A Revival Rooted in Family History
But the story doesn’t end there. Decades later, Michael Quinn, a Brooklyn native and grandson of a loyal Feltman’s customer, decided to bring the original taste back to life. Inspired by stories from his grandfather—who claimed Feltman’s hot dogs were superior to Nathan’s—Quinn set out to resurrect the brand. In 2015, after acquiring the original recipe and the Feltman’s name, he opened a small takeout spot in the East Village and eventually returned to Coney Island in 2017.
Today, Feltman’s serves premium, additive-free beef hot dogs with a proprietary spice blend. Customers can enjoy them with sauerkraut and a unique mustard, just as Quinn’s grandfather once did. These efforts have not gone unnoticed—Feltman’s hot dogs have been named among America’s top 10, and even competitive eating legend Takeru Kobayashi reportedly prefers them over Nathan’s.
A Tale of Two Titans
While Feltman’s hot dogs are now stocked in over 2,000 supermarkets and thriving in the wake of a global pandemic, Nathan’s Famous continues to hold its ground as a commercial powerhouse. With products in more than 55,000 locations across ten countries and its internationally televised Hot Dog Eating Contest every July 4th, Nathan’s legacy is undeniably strong.
But now, for the first time in decades, hot dog lovers have a delicious choice to make. Will you reach for the globally renowned Nathan’s, or will you take a bite of history with Feltman’s original red hot?
No matter which one you pick, you’ll be indulging in a culinary tradition over 150 years in the making.
