Nestled deep in Chile’s Andes Mountains, Ski Portillo is a place where time seems to pause. With no surrounding town and limited accommodations, there’s little to do other than ski – and that’s precisely the appeal.
Today’s ski resorts often promise sprawling peaks draped in powder, cutting-edge lifts, lavish hotels with full-service spas, lively après-ski scenes, and boutiques stocked with the latest winter gear. They’re designed as much for the casual visitor as for die-hard skiers. But Portillo is different. Hidden away in the Chilean Andes and open only during the South American winter, this all-inclusive retreat strips skiing back to its roots. There’s no glitz, no distractions – just the slopes.
Covering 5 square kilometers with 35 trails and 14 lifts (some of them traditional drag lifts), Portillo holds the title of South America’s first ski resort. While it may not compete in size with the Alps or Rockies, its challenging off-piste terrain and expert runs have earned it a legendary status. Just as notable is its atmosphere – a nostalgic escape that feels like stepping into a simpler era.
Unlike many ski destinations that have rushed to modernize, Portillo has stayed true to its vintage character. Reaching it involves a scenic two-hour drive northeast of Santiago along a narrow mountain highway shared with cargo trucks. The resort’s iconic bright yellow hotel – a central hub for communal meals and evening socializing – remains much the same as when it first opened. Capacity has only modestly increased to about 450 guests. With no village nearby and little to offer non-skiers, Portillo’s charm lies in its singular focus: skiing, pure and simple.
Portillo’s modern chapter began in the 1960s, though its roots stretch much further back. Originally launched by the Chilean government in 1949, the resort took a pivotal turn when Bob Purcell, a New York financier, acquired it at auction—he was the only bidder. He soon invited his 26-year-old nephew Henry, then climbing the ranks at Hilton Hotels, to take over as general manager.
But skiing in the region predates the resort itself. In the 1880s, Norwegian engineers crossed these mountains on skis while building the railway that would eventually connect Chile with Mendoza, Argentina. After the railway opened in 1910, locals would ride the train up the slopes and ski back down as if it were a makeshift lift. Though that railway has since disappeared, Portillo lives on—now outfitted with real ski lifts—and remains under the care of the Purcell family.
Ellen Guidera Purcell, Henry’s wife and an integral part of Portillo’s daily operations, recalls that in the early days, the resort was often a gathering place for the Purcells’ famous friends to enjoy lively ski parties. “Those parties were a sign of things to come,” she said. “Because Portillo has remained not only a place for incredible skiing, but also for unforgettable moments with family and friends—joyful dinners, parties, dancing at the bar, and lasting memories.”
Carolina Mendoza, a retired business owner, first came to Portillo as a teenager in the mid-1970s while growing up in Venezuela. Aside from a few years spent living in Europe and the pandemic hiatus, she’s returned nearly every season since. With Chilean roots on her mother’s side, Mendoza describes Portillo as a place full of warmth and connection. “There’s such a strong sense of community here,” she said. “It almost feels like being with family.”
Yet beyond the camaraderie and tradition, Portillo is also a destination for serious skiers. Known for its steep and demanding terrain, the resort hosted the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships in 1966, securing its place as a premier spot for high-level winter sports. Today, that reputation lives on. Each year from June through September, when the northern hemisphere is basking in summer, snow seekers from the U.S., Canada, Europe, and across Latin America descend on Portillo to chase winter. Among them are loyal regulars like Mendoza, as well as elite athletes preparing for major competitions like the Olympics. Both the welcoming vibe and the adrenaline-pumping slopes are what keep them coming back.
U.S. Olympian and World Champion ski racer Breezy Johnson has visited Portillo five times. Her first trip in 2015 was a memorable one, featuring training sessions alongside ski icons like Julia Mancuso, Laurenne Ross, and Leanne Smith. “Portillo is such a unique place,” she says. “I call it the cruise ship, because it’s pretty much the only thing around for miles.” She admits that at first, the remote and rugged environment felt overwhelming. “I was a bit — actually, very — intimidated by how stark it all was.”
But what once seemed daunting has become one of Portillo’s greatest strengths. Now based in Jackson, Wyoming, Johnson appreciates the resort’s efficiency and simplicity. “We can just walk down to breakfast, head straight to the slopes, lay out our seven pairs of skis, and start training,” she explains. “Compared to the hassle of multiple trams in Europe, long drives in New Zealand, or even snowmobile rides in Corralco [Chile], Portillo’s layout lets you conserve your energy and focus on what really matters — skiing.”
And it’s not just Olympians who are drawn to Portillo’s challenging terrain and no-frills ski culture. Adventurous skiers are often spotted hiking from the lifts to access off-piste terrain, and one of the resort’s most iconic expert runs—Roca Jack—stretches more than 2.6 kilometers down the mountain. While elite athletes like Breezy Johnson appreciate the resort’s long, technical trails for training, advanced recreational skiers love them just as much. That said, you don’t need to be an expert to enjoy Portillo. With its demanding slopes, the resort also offers top-tier instruction to help intermediate skiers level up.
The most popular way to experience Portillo is through a week-long package that includes lodging, meals, and lift tickets. Still, the Purcell family is modernizing the experience in thoughtful ways. Recently introduced A-frame chalets cater to guests looking for more privacy, and themed events like Wine Week in August bring in prestigious Chilean wineries for tastings and educational sessions. For those seeking even more adventure, heli-skiing excursions are available, or guests can extend their trip with a stay at a partner property such as VIK—a luxury vineyard hotel about four hours south.
Still, at its core, “Portillo is about skiing,” Guidera emphasizes. While some upgrades have been made—like refreshed guest rooms—there are still no televisions in them. The focus remains firmly on the mountain.
More than anything, Portillo is about community. In a place where everyone shares a love for skiing and there aren’t many distractions, familiar faces quickly become part of the experience—whether you’re grabbing lunch at Tio Bob’s or soaking in the hot tub before dinner. “Life at Portillo happens on the slopes and in the many shared spaces around the hotel, where guests connect with each other and with us,” says Guidera. “Friendships are formed, couples fall in love, some get engaged or even married here, babies are conceived, and eventually, some guests have their ashes scattered on these very slopes. Others leave saying, ‘What happens in Portillo stays in Portillo.’”
For Carolina Mendoza, that sense of connection is personal—she met her second husband here through friends she’d made over the years at the resort. And as Breezy Johnson points out, the bonds you form aren’t limited to fellow guests. The staff, many of whom hit the slopes on their days off, quickly become part of the extended Portillo family. “It really is a small community tucked into the mountains,” she says.
